On this page I had decided to alter the front adjuster tighteners and fit the tension spring, the top front tightener  is now 4 BA I didn't like the steel M3 it seemed out of place and a bit small, and the lower one on the rake has been changed to brass instead of steel. and I have also added two counter sunk 4BA next to the terminals through the base to stop the contact and rake blocks from swinging, all easy enough

BUT then came fitting the tension spring, and I realised there was a problem, this often happens on making a key especially if it is an unusual one, I did notice this problem on my previous key which was very similar design and I will probably go back to it. The problem is if you undo the tension adjuster to the point where it comes off the threaded rod attached to the spring it springs back through the adjuster and can't be replaced, I could have used a much stronger spring so the threaded rod was kept higher and required less adjustment but this always makes the action feel hard and unresponsive, SO I decided to see if I could get round the problem with a bit of redesigning on the hoof so to speak :)

First of all I took a 2BA nut and drilled it out to 5mm and then turned a piece of brass bar down to 5mm to fit in it, see below
then I cut down the bar using a slot saw just leaving a quarter moon shape  and pushed that into the nut below
then soldered it in place and cleaned it up below
Then I drilled out the top of the shaped tension adjuster just undersize to the nut and then tapped the nut into the hole a bit like a rivet you can see how below
then I made up a piece of studding by cutting an edge from it so it matched the shape of the nut but leaving a bit on top uncut, at the bottom of the studding is a small hole to attach the spring.
So now you can see the studding in the top of the adjuster still under tension but can't pull through because of the shape inside of the nut, easier to do than to explain :)
Now just a matter of cleaning it up and fitting it all together, so now I can use my lovely soft spring to give the action I want and with no fear of a problem if I undo the adjuster to far
The underneath of the adjuster body is drilled out so the spring can move up into it when under tension which gives a nice neat appearance, below
And the spring is pushed into the spring guard and fixed with a pin under the wooden base
And below you can see how neat the tension spring arrangement looks, it doesn't have a great range owing to the soft spring and the small amount of thread in the shortened adjuster knob but certainly enough for me AND I have the action I have been aiming for Excellent!!!
Now it is almost fully operational, certainly enough to try out, it still requires the two brass lined fixing holes and maybe a brass limiter and of course the final finishing, nearly there :)))